Saturday, May 29, 2010

"The Land God gave to Cain"


History is written for you by people who have decided what they think is important for you to know, most everything else tends to get lost or there are only tidbits to go on. Whether it is a strictly historical account there will always be some bias. Well this is my historical account of the Lower North Shore based on my research for the purpose of this blog. I have excluded alot of information that I think is worth knowing if you've got the time so I have included some links to websites with more in depth information. Today I will briefly tell you about the history of discovery, exploration and settlement on the coast. During a fairly quick internet search I discovered what I have known to be true that there is little or no mention of our specific geographical area in the history of Quebec or Canada. What I feel to be an important enough aspect of our province and nations history apparently does not warrant even a footnote of mention in the curriculum taught to us in high school and have found that to be true in higher education as well.




Everyone knows that Jacques Cartier was one of the first explorers to come across and document the Gulf of St Lawrence and the St Lawrence River but most of the time when discussed in history they talk about him visiting Newfoundland and Gaspe and of course Stadacona and Hochelaga. The maps included above are the first two of his three voyages to North America. As you can see both voyages took him and his crew along the LNS. In the history of Jacques Cartier (JC) they mention marooning Marguerite de LaRocque on what was then known as the Isle of Demons. We know that this island was located on the Gulf of St Lawrence off the coast of Quebec. The island that is believed to be the Isle of Demons is now known as Harrington Harbor; I will tell you about the legend later when I discuss this village in detail. There is further evidence that a place called Brest was located around the village we call Old Fort Bay which was documented on early maps of the region and JC wrote about visiting the port in 1534. Apparently JC described the LNS as “the land god gave to cain.” The port of Brest was probably named after a town in Brittany. In any case it likely proves that JC did visit the LNS. Anyway you should already know all about the initial discovery of North America with reference to Cartier and Cabot. However these men were not the first to find North America. All along the St Lawrence and the Gulf there are archeological sites that have found evidence that the Basque whalers had used North American waters to hunt for whales before Jacques Cartier’s time. The Vikings deserve their due for being the first Europeans to reach our shores. Jacques Cartier apparently used the Basque knowledge of the land and also benefited from their amicable relationships with the native population. There are archeological sites in, Gros Mecatina, and Havre Boulet. The digs began in 2001 and are being conducted by the Arctic Studies Center of the Smithsonian Museum; the project is called the St Lawrence Gateways Project if you are interested in learning more. http://www.mnh.si.edu/arctic/features/gateways/pages/page2.htm

The villages along the Lower North Shore were established during the 1700’s for the purpose of exploiting the areas resources. The land rights (seigneuires) were granted to a few noblemen by the King of France. Augustin Le Gardeur de Courtemanche was given all the land between Kegaska and Hamlet Inlet (Labrador) for 10 years beginning in 1702. Apparently the King thought Courtemenche was Cain and gave him the entire strip. Afterwards he took a lifelong concession of Bradore Bay. In 1763, the Brits kicked the French out and began to enforce their own business interests. The British did not want the area to be settled as they wanted to maintain a monopoly over the industry. However as the North American population grew more and more people migrated to the LNS from England, Scotland, and the Jersey Islands. The Jersey Island fishermen were mostly bilingual and were the main reason for later immigration as they were responsible for setting up the cod industry. They attracted the Newfoundlanders, other Quebecer’s and the Acadians during the 19th century. They were also responsible for New Jersey.

The ancestral composition of the LNS is made up of Scottish, British, French, Jersey, Newfoundland, Acadian and Innu backgrounds. The native population on the coast is Innu; they were formerly known as the Montagnais, the Mountain people. There are two Innu reserves on the coast: Unamen Shipu located near La Romaine and Pakua Shipi, located across the river from St Augustine. On the LNS the European settlers and the Native’s existed peacefully. The Innu taught the Euro’s how to survive, how to travel, and hunt this particular stretch of land. They taught them to move inside for the harsh winter months and outside for the summer season; (inside as in Inland, and outside as in on the shore). The Innu were the last nomadic groups in North America. Nowadays everyone has a permanent year round home since trapping and hunting are not as economically vital to the region.

A really good timeline is available on the web at: http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~qclns/timeline_second.htm

It details the history of the LNS and of important events in Canadian history from Early Maritime Archaic (8000 to 4500 years ago) to 1984.

Here is a list of sources I used:
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Thanks for reading!

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

I'm going home!!!!



For the past few years I have been mulling over writing a book about the Lower North Shore of Quebec so I thought it might be a great motivator and a good way to organize my thoughts by starting this blog. Most people who know me have heard me talk about this place but for those who don't know; its an isolated strip of coast that stretches 375 km's from Natashquan, QC to Blanc Sablon, QC just below Labrador. Approximately 5,000 people live in small villages along the coast and their economy relies on the Atlantic fishing industry. Today I mainly want to tell you about my travel itinerary but I will devote a post or two to talking about the political and socio-economic issues that are affecting this place I love so dearly.

The last time I visited my family on the coast I was 17 years old; now I am 24, about to move to South Korea for awhile and have decided that it is imperative I go home before I move so far away. My heart is screaming for the air, the water, my grandmothers cooking and her amazing stories. Why you ask has it been so long since I've been home? Here's the deal, last time I checked it was about 1800$ for a return flight from Montreal to Chevery, since I was in school for so long that wasn't exactly feasible. But it’s in Quebec, Canada…a developed nation… we can probably just drive there from Montreal, or Quebec City. Well you would be partially right in thinking that. It takes about 10-12 hours to drive from Sherbrooke, QC, (it takes 12 hrs from Quebec City by bus) to get to Sept Iles. From there, if you have a car you can continue 4 hours north to Natashquan. Now the Nordik passenger boat leaves from there at around 7:30am, so unless you drive through the night you’ll have to take accommodations in town...don’t ask me where, I’m sure there’s a boarding house or two, in the summer there’s probably a place you can pitch a tent. Otherwise for a traveler like myself I can stay at a hotel in Sept Iles and catch the boat at 6am. After that it takes a few days depending on where you’re going….if you’re not accustomed to sea travel then you won’t enjoy that leg of the trip. Don’t be mistaken either, this is no cruise, there is very little to do other than nature watch and sleep; I think they may have television now.

So here's how I am getting home:
I was supposed to fly from Montreal to Sept Iles using airmiles my Dad had given me. I can't use them to get beyond Sept Iles because I have to take Air Labrador but thats okay the boat stops in different ports so I can get off, talk to people and take some photos for my book/blog. Anyway the flights are booked up so I can't fly to Sept Iles, therefore; lucky me, i get to take a 15 hour bus ride. I'll be taking said bus ride on Tuesday June 1st arriving in Sept Iles probably around 8:30/9pm. I'm hoping that I can stay with a friend because otherwise its a night at the Mingan Hotel for me and that will not be very pleasant. My boat leaves at 6am Wednesday and arrives in La Tabatiere (where my Dad lives) at 7:30 am Friday, weather permitting. I will stay there for a few days and then my Dad will take me by outboard to Harrington Harbour (where I'm from). For those of you who don't know what an outboard is its essentially a large wooden row boat with a motor on the back; I believe this part of the trip will take about 3 hours mostly on open water. Anyway maybe we can make a day of it; go fishing, stop on different islands, I think there are some ghost towns along the way. I'll let you know how that turns out. So then I stay at my grandma's B&B for a few days and then catch the boat on Saturday June 12th at I think 5 am. I will arrive in Natashquan on Sunday morning at which point I'm just crossing my fingers I can get a ride to Sept Iles. Incomprehensively the boat does not stop in Sept Iles on the way back it goes straight to Rimouski. On June 14th I finally board a plane back to Montreal, there was one seat left, I got lucky. I wanted to go farther north than La Tabatiere to Blanc Sablon, Old Fort, Brador Bay etc, there are about 8 villages I will not be able to visit this time around due to time constraints but I may be able to get someone to take me to St Augustin and Pakua Shipi which are the next towns north of La Tabatiere. I probably won't be able to write while I am actually travelling but I intend to talk about each place I visit. But first here's a preliminary look at each village along the Lower North Shore in order from South to North; the places in green are the places I will be visiting. I will also stop in Port Menier which is on Anticosti Island, Havre Saint Pierre and Natashquan but they are not part of the Lower North Shore technically.

Kegaska - Population: 130
La Romaine (Unamen Shipu) - Population: 1,050
Chevery - Population: 300
Harrington Harbour - Population: 300
Tête-à-la-Baleine - Population: 250
Mutton Bay - Population: 192
La Tabatière - Population: 499
Pakua Shipi - Population: 300

Saint Augustine - Population: 791
Old Fort Bay - Population: 347
St. Paul's River - Population: 468
Middle Bay - Population: 52
Brador - Population: 136
Lourdes-de-Blanc-Sablon - Population: 750
Blanc-Sablon - Population: 325

Here is a list of Ghost towns off hand that I may also be able to see:

Aylmer Sound

Wolf Bay

Mousquoro

Shag Island

Gull Cliff Island

Fox Island

Little Fox Island


I hope to have time to write a post about the history of the area before I leave next tuesday. Until then thanks for reading!